Dal Maestro restaurant

REVIEW | Monticelli (April 2009)

Open for a little more than two years, Dal Maestro served up its own unique charm that makes it a welcoming choice for fine dining all year round. The French-Italian restaurant is situated in a hallowed space, which for years was home to popular chain eatery Browns, and is only a stone's throw from the theatres, tennis courts, seaside and majority of hotels to the east of the pier.

french/italian restaurantOn warm days, the appealing al fresco option is perfect to watch the world go slowly by while enjoying lunch or relaxing with a fancy cocktail. 

But for those in a hurry, takeaway orders are a convenient way to dine.

Once you have followed your nose and found this gem of a place, it won't be long before it starts to fill up and really bustle.

Dal Maestro tends to attract a loyal following, as it is relatively inexpensive and offers generous portions. And their perfect recipe for success is topped off by the soft sounds of retro Italian music in the background.

Sophisticated surroundings and plentiful excellent food makes Dal Maestro an ideal place to linger with friends - either inside or al fresco - for drinks, lunch, dinner and special occasions.

thelocation

great for drinks, meals or snacksAl fresco | Tucked away from the town centre, but perfectly located for the theatre and tennis, the chic black exterior can give off the wrong impression that it is going to be far too exclusive and expensive.

Lunch or a cocktail on the pavement offers an unique experience, and is a major draw on sunny days and balmy nights.

Theatre goers | And Dal Maestro has cornered the theatre crowd - both theatres are opposite - by offering a special menu (5pm-6.45pm) for around £5. The pre-theatre menu may be small and limited - fish & chips, pizza and various basic Italian meals - but the food is very tasty.   

thewelcome

unpretentious place to eatCharming | Both the owner and maître d' make you feel welcome as you enter the building.

Stephane, the Brighton-based owner is a natural charmer - and a wondrous host if he is not busy in the kitchen.

And his knowledgeable sidekick, Gavin is also genuinely warm and convivial.

Service is relatively swift without being intrusive, as you study the menu and canter at a leisurely pace between courses at the charming and unpretenious Dal Maestro.

thedecor

chic yet cosyImage matters | Seaside-whitewashed walls are beautifully brightened by a sprinkling of massive monochrome photographs, sophisticatedly edged with curled black designs.

And two vast shiny silver glitter balls at the front of the restaurant proves that this eatery has a sense of humour.

With high ceilings, the trio of oversized glass chandeliers are spectacular, and lend the narrow room its own quirky yet chic charm.

Cosy tables and comfortable black leather chairs are cleverly arranged so that each set of diners can enjoy an element of intimacy. Dal Maestro is not huge, but is a relaxing place to dine even when it is busy.

Tables are clad in elegant black tablecloths with white paper napkins, though you would expect cotton napkins.

Dining al fresco on the pavement results in slightly less comfort, but these seats are at a premium during the summer months.   

theambience

unpretentious place to eatHappy talk | Looking around the airy room, it seems that just about everyone is happily chatting away while tucking into their food with aplomb.

These jolly sounds bounce off the walls and polished wooden floors, yet because of the high ceilings conversations remain private.

But to ensure privacy, the low, lulling sound of Italian opera and 50s/60s music helps evoke a calm and relaxed atmosphere for a fine dining experience.   

thestarter

Continental style | The menu kicks off with nine appetisers, ranging from pizza pane (pizza bread at £2.50) to the famous coquillage St Jacques (scallop shell filled with fish and creamy sauce at £7.50).

top-notch startersSome entrées sound somewhat dated, like Parma ham and melon. But this ever-popular dish was generous and beautifully combined the contrasting sweet and salty tastes.

Dal Maestro's vast elegant white plates came in different shapes, depending on the content, yet were still brimming with top-notch food.

The calamari piccanti (fried squid in a spicy garlic sauce) is prepared to be as fiery as you desire. The perfectly prepared crayfish starter was extremely generous, succulent and well presented. Carpaccio (thinly sliced raw beef), named after the great painter Vittore Carpaccio, was flavoursome. Only the purist would argue that the Parmesan cheese was too finely shaved. 

themain

generous portionsSuperb look & taste | A veritable feast of delights are available. Beautifully presented meat dishes are a melt-in-the-mouth delight, they may be costly but are worth every penny as so succulent.

The medaglioni di fileto al maestro (char-grilled fillet steak) arrives cooked to order and is big on flavour. It is always worth asking what the chef recommends, this was his choice and is arguably the best dish on the menu in terms of taste.

But for those who do not fancy steak, there are never-changing favourites including 11 different dishes of pasta and 10 handmade thin-crust pizzas. Like the generous attitude of Italian cooking, main dishes - as well as starters - tend to be on the large side at Dal Maestro. And the restaurant's abundantly topped pizza special, Dal Maestro, was bursting with flavours and large enough to share between two.

thepudding

continental choiceSweet sensation | These continental sugary treats were liberal, light and lovely. But hot on the heels of such previous perfection, the traditional continental-style puddings cannot quite live up to the calibre of previous courses.

Bread and butter pudding is surprisingly custardy, sweet and palatable. Freshly prepared Crêpe Suzette is worth the wait as the tangy taste hits the spot, but if you still have room then crisp apple strudel (a German pudding) is perfection.

Although for an authentic Italian dolce experience, the tiramisu may only be small but is rich with its coffee-soaked flavour, mascarpone cheese and delicate powdered cocoa. Despite being light and airy, it is.enough to satisfy any remaining pangs of hunger..

thewine

house wine is very gluggableCheers | Some interesting and fun wines from Italy and France are available. Although the wine list is not particularly extensive, it is broad enough to satisfy most diners.

The maitre d' is wine-knowledgeable, so do consult him if you are after a special bottle. There are also champagnes available at very reasonable prices and proscecco, the popular Italian alternative.

At lunchtime, the Italian house wine - Monti Rossi Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (13.5%) - is a full-bodied and fruity red that is recommended. There are house whites and rose that are very gluggable during the summer.

thedrinks

Coffee | In addition to wines, the compact yet well-stocked bar offers Italian coffee, just one draught beer and a small collection of cocktails.

cocktails are inexpensiveBeer | During the summer a refreshing Peroni Nastro Azzuro (5.1%), available on tap, al fresco at Dal Maestro is a real joy. It is brewed from the finest spring planted barley malts to give Italy's no1 beer a crisp and clean taste.

Cocktails | But if cocktails are more your scene and you are fed up with the tried and tested Pimm's and lemonade, the 'Dal Maestro Deluxe' could be your answer. This is their most expensive cocktail at a princely £7.50, which is a slightly bitter taste comprising campari, champagne, cognac and grand marnier. Elegantly served in narrrow patterned glasses, all cocktails come with finely crushed ice for a truly thirst-quenching drink.

thebottomline

Fantastico! | Tastebuds will be tantalised by the comforting and affordable traditional Italian dishes.

thegood

Best thing | Affordable, generous portions and tasty food make this a must visit place for food or drinks.

thebad

Worst thing | The look and feel of the menu, liberally peppered with mis-spellings.